It is not good for man to workout alone

Hello friends,

This past Sunday, I went for a ride with my brother-in-law, David, who also happens to be my wife's brother. We've ridden together quite a bit. We've done the DALMAC ride in Michigan (Lansing to Mackinaw city), Ride Idaho (400 or so miles around the state), all across Southwest Michigan, Wisconsin, Iowa, Utah...anyway, you get the point.

As we were riding, quite fastly I might add, David commented that we always seem to push a little harder when we are riding together, as opposed to riding individually. Of course, I agreed.

In cycling there is an obvious benefit to taking turns "pulling." We'll each take a couple miles in front pushing hard, and then rotate to the back for a little break while the other person pulls. This provides a surprisingly nice benefit. So as you might imagine, if we work together well, we can go faster together than individually.

But could there be more to it than that?

Indeed, I was inside today browsing the Outside columns and saw this article that just came in:

How Your Workout Partner Boosts Your Performance: A new study explores why we're stronger and faster when someone is watching

In the new study, Sparks and his colleagues asked 12 volunteers, all with at least a year of weight-training experience, to perform three sets of bench presses at 60 percent of their one-rep max, all to failure and with two minutes of rest between each set. They did this test twice, on two separate days, once with two spotters on either side of the bar and once with no spotters visible. (The spotters were actually still there but were hidden behind a screen so the volunteers couldn’t see them while lifting.)

As expected, the volunteers managed to squeeze out more reps when they knew the spotters were watching than when they didn’t know, lifting a total of 11.2 percent more weight.

 And the article concludes:

In other words, we’re wired to respond to the presence of other people. They can help you dig deeper, or, conversely, they can help make a given level of exertion feel easier. That’s something many of us discover intuitively from training with a group... And as Sparks’ study reminds us, those other people don’t have to yell at us, offer technical guidance, or even say anything at all. All they have to do is show up.

 So there you have it. Aside from the wind benefit, your cycling buddies can help improve your performance just by showing up.

In other news, it's time to stop wasting your time doing regular pushups. To summarize, doing regular pushups is like having lutefisk at your family holiday gatherings. It may be of some benefit, but it's mostly just an outdated tradition. Thankfully, I stopped doing pushups years ago.

The article goes on to provides five alternatives - from Marco Sanchez, the assistant strength and conditioning coach of the San Jose Sharks.

Basically, instead of looking like your current self, you could look like this:

(Tattoo not included)

Here is a closer look:

Apparently, doing these variations of the standard pushup could also cause spontaneous loss of frontal teeth. We can only assume this is a direct result of kicking yourself in the face while performing a "Spiderman Pushup":

But really, that's just an added benefit. Without your front teeth, you will be about 0.2 lbs. lighter on your bike, and this will also likely increase your breathing capacity / oxygen intake.


Until next time,
Clay

Post Tax Day Recap

Hello again, and happy Wednesday.

Just dropping by to give you a quick recap of some events that transpired over the course of yesterday. If you are friends with me on Facebook, you may have already received a preview. But, I did not share with you the favorite part of my story.

As a cyclist, it is imperative to intake a significant amount of calories on a daily basis. Therefore, when I saw this come across my inbox the other day, you can bet I blocked my calendar.

Yes, 1,040 bonus points at Qdoba, and basically all you have to do is eat Qdoba. And if you are not a cyclist and don't eat at Qdoba, 1,040 points is approximately 1/3 of a burrito.

So I was delightfully pedaling down the street for lunch when I came across a car with it's flashers on, in the middle of the road. And just so you don't think I'm a total jerk, my first thought was to ask if they needed any help. Further inspection of the vehicle; however, identified that it was unoccupied. So I proceeded on my route...

Then it occurred to me as I took one more backwards glance...how ironic that this car broke down, ran out of gas, or whatever, in front of a bike shop. Of course, I had to return to the scene and capture this special moment:

That is when it happened...

As I was standing there on the sidewalk admiring my photography skills, an irate person in their car pulled into the turning lane behind this abandoned car. Subsequently, this person laid on their horn multiple times in increasing increments. After a while, I can only presume said person began to realize this car was not moving. Maybe it was the flashing flashers, or maybe it was the fact that the car was not moving. Either way, this person then maneuvered around the broken down car, all the while angrily glaring into what they would soon discover was unoccupied space. I should also share that this persons final destination was Sonic - America's drive-in.

You really can't make this stuff up. 

The entire time I just stood there quiet. Or is it quietly? Or should I say, I just stood there, quiet? You never really know sometimes...

And finally, the weather outlook for the next 5 days is really looking up. Or is it uply? 

Sincerely,

Clay 

Commuter Series - part 2 - The Gear

Now that you have a bike, it's time to talk about the gear you need.

Wait...you didn't buy a bike yet?!? In that case, I'm not sure what you are still doing reading this.

But if you are still reading, I'll tell you what you need, regardless. Let's start with the essentials.

Helmet

Bicycle helmets are basically foam hats that are designed to protect your head in the event of a collision between a rapidly moving metal box and/or the pavement. If this sounds like propaganda from the federal government and automotive industry to disgrace people on bikes, you may be correct:

(I will wear a helmet,

I will stay in the bike lane,

I will not cross the solid white line,

I will be good.

I will wear a helmet...)

Furthermore, the federal government has promoted the fact that bicycle helmets prevent 85% of head injuries.

In 1989, a study in Seattle estimated that helmets prevent 85% of head injuries. Later efforts to replicate those results found a weaker connection between helmets and head injuries, but public health advocates, government web sites, and the news media often present it as fact. 

If you consider the entire body of research rather than just one study, and look at both head and neck injuries, helmets only reduce the risk of injury by about 15% to 45% . 

While it is highly unethical to experiment on people, as the article notes, we are almost certain that helmets do still reduce the risk of injury to some extent. At the end of the day, that is enough for me. And unless I'm schlepping the kids down to the neighborhood park, you will find me wearing a helmet. But I wouldn't spend $250 on something like this:

When you can get the something like this, that looks exactly the same, for $65 (or less):

Ironically, a study in Australia for car occupants found, "In about 44 percent of cases of occupant head injury, a protective headband...would have provided some benefit." We can only assume a full helmet would provide an even greater benefit, except for your hair, but you still don't see too many of these around...

Lights

Now, if you will excuse me, I need to climb down from my soapbox on helmets. And let me introduce this next category by telling you a story. Around the time I purchased my first bike, I also purchased this headlight:

At 100 lumens, this light functions well for being seen. However, this light does not function very well to see the road in front of you. Come mid-September-ish, this starts to present itself as a problem. Without the ability to see further than 5 feet or so of the road ahead, I was tossed over the handlebars by potholes, rattled by unseen roadkill and thrown on my side by trash receptacles occupying the bike lanes. And, while none of the these things actually happened, it was clear that these events would be in my near future if I did not upgrade to a headlight that allowed me to see as well as be seen.

So, here is a helpful article with their recommendations, which are pictured, and linked, below.

(Link)

(Link)

Also, below are the upgraded lights that I have used on my bikes for the past couple years. I would highly recommend them, although they are slightly more expensive. My headlight is brighter than the one recommended above at the highest setting (800 lumens). But I typically have it on the second setting when I'm commuting, which is 450 lumens. So the headlight above should serve you justice at 500 lumens. Each of the lights should have a steady setting for use at night or a blinky option for use during the day.

It's also a good idea to throw a second cheap taillight ($10-20) on your backpack, helmet, etc. Here's what it looks like in action: 

Fenders

Ahh, fenders. Another true essential for commuters. Unless of course you want to arrive at the office looking like this guy:

In fact, I was so excited after my first ride with fenders that I took this picture:

Well...that was a bit awkward...

Regardless, fenders are essential for keeping you, and your drivetrain, clean in wet conditions. Even if you don't plan to ride in the rain, at least in southwest Michigan, it tends to rain and storm overnight. Then you will wake up to a beautiful, clear morning with completely wet pavement. On that day, you will not want your decision to ride to come down to whether or not you want to arrive at the office with a stripe up your back like Pepe Le Pew. 

Now, for my recommendations. First, you will want full length mudguards. And SKS is a great brand. The first set of fenders that I had were SKS Bluemels. 

They come in plenty of shapes and sizes depending on your tires. But there is a catch. At least for those of you who may be as mechanically inept as I am. 

That's right. "Mark the appropriate length and cut the stays with a hacksaw." My experience with SKS Bluemels ended after a couple hours of frustration with a return box full of hacksawed and bent metal pieces. Then I ended up getting these:

You read correctly, "No-Cut-Strut fenders allow quick, easy, and precise installation." Idiot proof fenders. Installation involved tightening a few screws and some slight adjustments with the allen key. I've had these on my commuter for close to 2 years now with no issues.

And for those of you with road bikes or other bikes with no fender or rack mounts, here is an option for you. I haven't actually used these, although they are in my Amazon wish list, so I will let you know what I think if I decide to make the purchase. These do appear relatively easy to mount, and do not involve the use of a hacksaw. 

Apparently it looks something like this when you get it all set up:

Go get a set, and then get a set for your favorite bike blogger too (assuming that it's me).

Rack, Pannier, Backpack

This should be relatively easy. Considering the average American household has 2.3 backpacks per person in the house (completely made up statistic), you shouldn't have to spend any money here. At the same time I put fenders on my bike, about 2 years ago, I put a rack on the back and purchased a waterproof pannier (Ortlieb is also a great brand if you are looking to go this route), like so:

However, for the first three years or so, I relied solely on my vast arsenal of backpacks. I still use a backpack whenever I ride my road bike to work as well. So if you can save some money in this category and use what you have, do it.

If you are still insisting on my product recommendations...well...here you go. I would look for (1) high visibility colors (2) reflectivity, and (3) waterproofness. There's probably something I'm missing. But from there, just decide how much room you need.

Small: Timbuk2 Raider Pack. I think it's about 18L, but it weighs in under one pound. And it's still big enough to carry a change of shoes and clothes. Starts getting pretty tight if I need to carry my laptop though. It's reflective, there are plenty of colors, and it has a loop to attach a light (pictured above, about 8 pictures ago).

Medium / Large: I'm just going to recommend anything Osprey sells. They sell some nice cycling specific bags in the 25-35L range, or probably larger if you are still commuting with a desktop computer. You can also get a high vis rain cover:

Accessories

And finally, if you still happen to be reading, here's what you need to carry with you:

 - Tire levers
 - Patch kit
 - Spare tube (for when the patch kit doesn't work)
 - Spare tube #2 (for when you blow up the first tube with CO2)
 - CO2 inflator
 - CO2 cartridge
 - Mini pump / frame pump (for when the CO2 cartridge doesn't work)
 - Multi-tool
 - Cash / Credit card (for when you get hungry)
 - Cell phone (for when all else fails)

But seriously, here is what I carry: tire levers ($5), spare tube, or 2 for longer rides ($7-8 each), mini pump (my recommendation here, but you can definitely go cheaper - starting around $20), multi-tool (this one is cool - $25). And then I do almost always have a credit card and cell phone with me.

You can get a seat bag to carry everything but the pump, which you can mount to the frame or water bottle bolts. Or you can throw it all in your bag or jersey pockets, like me. In the second method, you do increase the likelihood of forgetting or misplacing something, especially if you have multiple bags. At least that's what people say, it's certainly never happened to me....

And with that, I urge you to go enjoy the weekend. I'll see you next time.

-Clay

Commuter Series - part 1 - The Bike

So you've decided to ride your bike to work? Or maybe you've just decided to get a bike to hit some local trails, bike paths, roads, etc.

Either way, congratulations!

Your life is about to improve by drastic measures.

In order to assist you along in your journey, this is the beginning of what I'll call the commuter series. And without further delay, I present to you part 1 - the bike.

The Bike

Before I get ahead of myself recommending bikes that you don't need, you may already own a bike, or maybe there is an old steel bike gathering cobwebs in the corner of your parents garage. Mountain bike, road bike, cruiser, hybrid, etc. it doesn't really matter, if you have a bike - ride it. Unless you bike looks something like this, you should be able to ride it to work:

Now, if your only bike resembles that pictured above, or if you don't currently own a bike, or if you are just looking to upgrade, continue reading.

New or Used

The first thing you may want to decide is whether you plan to buy a new or used bike. If you are buying a used bike, here is a helpful link to Bike Snob NYC's Used Bicycle Buyers Guide. You can definitely save money buying used, or simply get more bike for the money you have budgeted to spend. But there can also be a lot of value in buying new from a bike shop. Here are a few advantages:

 - You can try multiple bikes to determine which one you like the best
 - Most bike shops include at least a basic fitting, so you can ensure you are getting the right size bike
 - Most shops also include at least one free service / tune-up (my favorite-ist local shop, Pedal, includes free service within the first year!)
 - Discounts on accessories
 - Building a relationship with the people you may need to service your bike in the future

The decision is yours. Just please do not spend hours riding and testing bikes at your local shop, only to get a used bike the next day on craigslist. Also, if you are newer to the business, don't be too nervous about buying used. You can typically replace most low to mid-range components (chain, cassette, chainrings / crank, brake / derailleur cables) for close to $200.

In fact, to give some more support to the local shop, it's not a bad idea to budget $100-200 to have your used bike serviced prior to riding. You'll still be saving money and end up with a great bike.

Frame Material

In my reviews, I'm going to stay mainly in the sub-$1,000 categories. So your options are going to be steel or aluminum. Steel is steel, or something like that. But seriously, steel is probably going to result in a heavier bike, but it is also more flexible, which results in a more comfortable ride. Aluminum is lightweight but less flexible.

Just like we would all expect a professional quarterback to notice if a football he was throwing was deflated, the more experienced and professional cyclists would easily notice the differences in frame material. Well...you will actually notice some differences riding a steel vs. aluminum bike; however, more likely than not either one will be fine. And either one will likely outlive us.

Also, most of the aluminum bikes I recommend below have more relaxed geometry and wider tires (I run 32-35mm tires on my commuter, 25mm on my road bike, currently). Assuming you get a proper fit, you will be plenty comfortable.

Just to note some other materials you may find out there: carbon fiber, titanium, and wood...apparently?!?

(Only hardwoods have the ability to provide structural stiffness rivaling carbon fiber while smoothing vibration through the structure of the material itself. In 2016 we began testing wood for a new and exciting project, now available as the product of an unusual partnership between ourselves and Glenmorangie scotch whisky. Renovo has collaborated with Glenmorangie, creators of Highland Single Malt Scotch Whiskies, to create the world’s first bicycle made from whisky casks.)

Who knew?

So if you have $7k laying around, I guess you can ride atop a bicycle made from whisky casks. 

Type of Bike

Moving on...if you go to the website of pretty much any major bicycle company, you will notice there are approximately 17 different types of bikes. For simplicity, these types of bikes basically fall into what I consider 3 categories: road, mountain, and hybrid.

In the road bike category, I generally group anything with drop bars. So we might as well call this the drop bar category.

In the mountain bike category, this includes anything with wide, knobby tires and bikes with front and/or rear suspension, in most cases.

As you might have guessed, hybrid bikes fall in between. Hybrids are basically a road bike frame with entry-level components, flat handle bars, and clearance for slightly wider tires.

Before I move on to my picks of the litter, let me explain my methodology. Unless you happen to have off-road trails leading from your house to the office, a mountain bike is probably not an ideal commuter. So I will spend most of my time in the hybrid / road bike categories. I'll include hybrid options at the entry-level price point; however, I highly recommend spending a little more to get an entry-level drop bar bike.

Here's why: When hybrids came out, the main advantages were wider tires on a light weight frame, with a more relaxed geometry (more upright body position on the bike). In the past years, almost every bike company is offering an entry level drop bar bike with the same features: ability to run wider tires, light weight frames, relaxed geometry, plus the drop bar and slightly upgraded components.

While most people may only think of a drop bar as having aerodynamic advantages, which it does, it offers numerous hand positions. As opposed to one hand position on flat bars, which can literally be numbing on longer rides.

You can pretty much put your hands anywhere there is bar tape. Like this (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html):

Note: This is also why my recommendations work for commuters or anyone else (especially in the Kalamazoo area) looking for an entry-level-ish bike. Drop bar bikes with wider tires are perfect for commuting, trail riding (since most of the Kalamazoo area trails are paved or gravel), group rides, your first cross or gravel race, etc. The possibilities are endless...not to mention these bikes also have eyelets for rack mounts and fenders. But more on the accessories later.

My Picks

Without further ado, below are my highly anticipated selections. Here are my top 3 road bikes in the $800-$1,000 range:

 Kona Rove - starting at $849, aluminum frame & fork with Shimano Claris components, runs up to 38mm tires: "The Rove is Kona's essential drop bar all-rounder. Comfortable fit and stable geometry, the ability to take rack and fenders, and a no-nonsense spec make the Rove a great choice for commuting, weekend adventuring, or the occasional 'cross or gravel race."

Or for $1,099, you get Shimano Sora components (9 speed), fenders, plus it's orange:

Salsa Journeyman - starting at $899, aluminum frame & fork with Shimano Claris components (Sora upgrade is $1,099 similar to Kona), runs up to 50mm tires. This might be a little much if you only plan to ride on pavement, but I like the option to run wide tires especially if you plan to commute in winter. "Journeyman is our all road bike designed with the versatility to fulfill a wide variety of missions, from backroad wandering to bikepacking to riding or racing gravel."

Trek CrossRip - The CrossRip 1 is currently on sale for $909, aluminum frame and fork with Shimano Sora components and the ability to run up to 38mm tires. This is a pretty good deal:

  

The CrossRip 2 comes in at $1,259 currently, but you get a carbon fiber fork and Shimano Tiagra 10 speed components. I have Tiagra on my road bike and really like this package:

Honorable mentions within this category: (1) Specialized Diverge - I really like these bikes; however, they tend to offer the same components as the above models at a slightly higher price. (2) Jamis Renegade

If you don't want to bother with the gravel, a couple straight road bikes for your consideration would be the Specialized Allez (starting at $750 for aluminum frame, carbon fork, and Shimano Claris) and the Cannondale CAAD Optimo (starting at $950 for aluminum frame, carbon fork, and Shimano Sora). One thing to keep in mind is you do lose the rack mounts, so if you are looking for a commuter you will be backpacking it. I did this for 2-3 years and still do when I ride my road bike to work, but it's worth consideration.

If $800-$1,000 (or more) seems a little steep for you, here are my picks of some hybrid / road bikes around the $500 price point:

The "Big 3," Trek, Specialized, and Cannondale, all offer worthy options if you are looking for a hybrid. These usually start in the $400-500 range, and personally, I wouldn't pay much more than that for a flat bar hybrid. The models are Trek FX, Specialized Sirrus, and Cannondale Quick. The Trek FX 2 was the first real bike I bought 5 or 6 years ago and mine currently has about 6,000 miles on it. This model is currently listed at $439, here it is:

It's also important to know that you will typically find close to new hybrid bikes on Craigslist. I believe this is the default recommendation for people looking to start riding paved / gravel trails, at least in Kalamazoo. Then the people that don't ride them decide to sell after 1-2 years. Personally, I wouldn't go much over $200 to $250 if you are buying used in this segment. Here is one example:

They also noted the bike was purchased for $700, and they have it "priced to sell" at $450...but as I said, I would offer a solid $200 or so:

Hey, it's not my fault they didn't ride their bike.

Finally, here is a straight forward, steel road machine if $500 is your budget.

Pure Cycles Drop Bar Road Bike - Steel frame and fork, Shimano Claris components, 28mm tires, rack and fender compatible, and 3 color options:

Starting at $699, you can also get a steel version with wider tires (38mm) and disc brakes, still with Shimano Claris, or Shimano Sora for $799:

Now stop reading, and go buy a bike. Feel free to leave a comment if you have questions. Happy shopping, and happy Friday!

- Clay